10月7日西貢南行 sai kung south hike on october 7

路線是北潭涌、上窰村、萬宜西壩,折回北潭涌。route: pak tam chung – sheung yiu village – high island reservoir west dam – pak tam chung

印象中的北潭涌,一直是郊野公園的風光。這次行走回來,再查閱資料,才認識多一層。可惜網上存取的資料很薄弱:

追溯五十多年前,西貢東沿岸村落約十六個。其中鹿湖及曝罟灣荒廢多時,浪茄今天大家都知道開設了青少年戎毒所基地,爛泥灣因建萬宜水庫而淹沒,上窰村在1984年開始開放上窰民俗文化博物館。除了北潭凹及較流灣村較多村民外,其餘村落衹有假日居民而已。

北潭涌在西貢南,北有鯽魚湖,西靠黃麖地,南接上窰,位處兩條涌匯合之處;大的叫龍坑,由北潭流入直出大海,所以命名為北潭涌。

being a hong kong urban girl, my impression of pak tam chung is a country park. only after the hike on sunday plus researches afterwards i started to learn more about history of sai kung. 50 years back, sai kung east along the coast recorded around 16 villages. nowadays, only two villages, pak tam au and kau liu wan, are still having some residents. the rest are either left as wasteland or converted to other usages, e.g. sheung yiu folk museum.

the word “chung” in pak tam chung means a brook. the name explains exactly the geographical location of the place. back in the olden days two brooks joined here. the bigger “chung” is named lung hang (literally mean dragon pit), it begins at pak tam. thus the name pak tam chung.

星期日早上秋高氣爽,我們驅車到達西貢。先經北潭涌村,踏過福興橋,欣賞到涌的臉貌。

it was one great autumn day last sunday. we went to pak tam chung country park on a coach and began our day from pak tam chung visitor entre and headed towards pak tam chung village. our first destination was of course the “chung”.  there is a historic bridge riding above and across the water.

涌的特性就是咸淡水交匯,潮漲海水沖入潮退剩下淡水。周圍是紅樹林的生境 – 刺葵、海漆、露兜、黃槿。 it is a typical ‘mangrove’ habitat. there are blind-your-eye mangrove, screw pine and cuban bast.

沿著村路,一路樹蔭,也穿過少許山林和流水。然後,路的右面出現一個大石灶。這是附近村民從前的生計 – 灰窯。靠近海邊,西貢一帶產珊瑚造就灰窯在此生產。(對岸是磚窯)

灰的主要用處包括作為建築材料和用於漁農業,中和酸性泥土和魚塘。

we then followed the path into the real countryside area, passed through some woodland and walked pass some streams. after some time there came a big rock “stove” by our right. it is a lime kiln which is listed. this area used to be a lime production hotspot benefiting from its rich coral and shellfish resources.

前走不遠先看到一堵高高的樓房側面,靠著高闊的前幅往前,繞幾級石階,我們到達上窯村。

看著這排白漆漆新簇簇的客家排屋改裝成的博物館,雖然有資料介紹,還是有點難想像舊日村民的生活。他們居住的空間實用多元,一列房子內就是煮食、起居、睡覺、沐浴、養豬、養牛的場地。舊日的人對自己居住的空間總是壓縮得很,反而門前曬穀物的地方寬敞。有趣的地方,不論牌樓和每棟屋子左下角都有一個方洞,據說是貓狗的出入口。

this is sheung yiu folk museum. originally this was a hakka house-village of the wong family. the special thing about this architecture is that it is built on a platform, some level up from the ground.

走出博物館,前面便是幾處頹桓,印證這條村的(湮沒)歷史。a sad view. deserted and torn houses just steps away from the museum. a living evidence of the inbalance development of hong kong.

多走一陣,我們離開教育徑範圍,但繼續在郊野公園內。上山。一路都是火山岩流紋岩,在腳下在周圍,印證這裡是一億四千多萬年前大爆發過的破火山口位置。

half way throught we started going uphill. we started withnessing one of the key geo-characteristics of this area, volcanic rock namely rhyolite.

 

曝罟灣荒廢漁塘,對岸滘西 wonderful seaview from time to time pop up on our right. the walled-water area is actually a neglected fish pond at po kwu wan, the area oppsite is called kau sai

到達元五墳營地,我們稍作林木觀察。有紅膠木、鷹不泊(簕欓花椒)、鴨腳木、鹽膚木等。we then took a break at yuen ng fan and made some observation of the plants around. there were brisbane box, prickly ash, ivy tree and chinese sumac.  

順著山路,一路不寂寞。很多野花、灌木,披一身色彩。山麥冬、毛麝香、淡竹葉 lophatherum gracile、山芝麻、地膽草、山木念、崗松 baeckea frutescens、油甘子indian gooseberry。

途中還嘗了一口崗菍,小小一顆濃濃的莓香。the walk was so enjoyable not only because it was an easy trail on a brilliant day. autumn is actually a secondary bloom season in a year. a lot of wild flowers, scrubs and trees are blosooming this season. one note to make, i tasted wild berry the first time. i will not foreget the lovely ruby sweetness of rose myrtle.

越靠近西壩,亮葉雞血藤、鹽膚木花朵怒放。glittering-leaved millettia and chinese sumac were booming as we got closer to the west dam.

參考 reference:

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